Fort Worth Motorcycle Riders

Hey can you go from synthetic oil to just the normal stuff? Will it hurt anything?

I've heard you can easily go from dino to synthetic, but not the other way. I do not know why though.

DemonDuck wrote:Hey can you go from synthetic oil to just the normal stuff? Will it hurt anything?

I think it really depends on the engine condition and the oil that you're using. But it shouldn't hurt anything.
Why would you want to switch back?

I'm with Don on this one, i've always heard you can't switch back to the old stuff.

milesmiles wrote:I'm with Don on this one, i've always heard you can't switch back to the old stuff.

That's what I've heard as well. But why would it damage the motor if you used regular oil?? It doesn't perform as well as synthetic but it does keep the motor lubricated. But if you're going to change back to the dino oil, you want to go from synthetic to a synthetic blend.. Then make the change to regular oil. But it really depends on what the motor is designed to use.

Don't quote me on this, but after switching to synthetic i believe the pistons "set" according to that oil. If you switch back it burns oil etc...

The chemistry is a little wonky, but basically dino oil and synthetic oil don't mix. Synthetic displaces the dino, so in the really tight spaces in your engine where it's metal on metal, when you try to go back to dino those parts just don't get lubricated like they should because the residue of the synthetic is busy keeping the dino oil out.

If you really want an in-depth explanation, go up to Grapevine Kawasaki, find Steve at the parts counter (the bigger guy with the lazy eye, not the other Steve), and ask him. He's actually got an education in that stuff.

But the short answer is, once you switch to synthetic don't switch back.

That makes sense Rhino, I thought it was something along the lines of chemistry.

I guess the real question is, why would you want to switch back to dino from synthetic, other than cost?

You can switch back and forth all you want. It wont hurt anything.

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil ... motor-oil/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/ho ... ts/4213451" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... r_Oil.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

How many miles do y'all change your regular oil compared to syn?

milesmiles wrote:How many miles do y'all change your regular oil compared to syn?

I run syn and change every 4K or every track day whichever comes first

same here, so do people running regular oil change around every 3k?

I change oil at 5K regardless of trackdays or oil type.

is that because you plan on wrecking the bike before it matters or because you don't think it matters?

When I had a bike I changed it ever 3-4k miles, or once a year. Race bike I changed it after every race weekend. Did it need it? Probably not.

I use Amsoil fully synthetic and change it every 5000 miles. I could probably go longer but I don't feel like doing the oil analysis. Amsoil says I can double the manufacturers recommended interval, which would allow me to go 8000 miles between changes.

And the manufactures recomendation of 3000 is a hold over from the 60's. Most all cars, and probably most bikes, can easily go 10,000 miles or more on modern oils.

The Hyundai actually says 6k in the manual.

I run a synthetic blend, change every 3k miles or 3 months wichever comes first.
I average 12k miles per year, so I'm usually pretty close with both.

I change every 5k. I use Repsol, the stuff moto liberty sells for $35 a gallon. I remember reading in car manuals oil-change frequency depends on driving type. Highway driving recommended change interval was 7500 miles. Stop an go driving or more dirty/dusty conditions, change more often say 5000 miles.
Bikes spin twice as fast as car motors so changing at 5k is the outer range of any recommend interval.
I have used Mobil1 silver cap, ($24) a gallon but it contains friction modifiers that makes the clutch too slippery. I do notice how nicely the clutch action is right after a change.
I will probably go back to the Mobil1 - a lot of the guys on the Triumph board use it and they have a lot more miles on their bikes. And the price is good too.

so the "motorcycle oil" is no different than any other of the same weight?

There are some differences, but the main thing is being wet clutch compatible. Most of the auto oils contain 'friction modifiers' that will cause a wet clutch in a motorcycle to slip. As long as the auto oil does not say 'energy conserving' on the lable it should be OK for the clutch. Most 5W-30 and 10W-30 auto oils contain the friction modifiers. 10W-40 oils usually do not, but you still need to check the label.

Here is part of a FAQ from Amsoil about the difference:

Are AMSOIL motorcycle oils different from AMSOIL automotive oils?

Answer: Yes. In addition to withstanding extreme pressure, protecting against rust and withstanding high temperatures, motorcycle oils must be compatible with wet clutches. AMSOIL motorcycle oils are designed to meet the unique frictional requirements necessary for wet clutch compatibility and provide maximum protection and performance in these applications.

http://www.amsoil.com/frequent.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Are you still an Amsoil rep Jim?

Still just a Preferred Customer. Thinking of becomming a Dealer though.

What would a quart run, any idea?