Rotella

[milesmiles]

I'm about to change the oil and thinking of running Rotella, as i've heard plenty of peeps use and and love it, plus it's cheap. So is there any particular kind i need to get though? And it's fully synthetic?

[Striple]

There are about as many opinions on oils as there are types of oils, so there really is no single right answer. I've tried a few different brands, but was never really able to notice a significant difference. Lately I've been using Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic, as it performs well, is cheap, and readily available ($25 for 5 Qts at Walmart). Just make sure you go with the proper grade and weight, as specified by the manufacturer.

[DarcShadow]

Not sure if it's such a big deal anymore, but I know at one time you were not supose to use oils that were "energy conserving", causes issues with the clutch. I used the energy conserving oil by mistake once and did have problems, but I know others have used it with no issues.

[milesmiles]

I didn't know the Mobile 1 was so cheap, i'll just go with that, that's what they recommend. Thanks

[dufremle]

Not sure if it's such a big deal anymore, but I know at one time you were not supose to use oils that were "energy conserving", causes issues with the clutch. I used the energy conserving oil by mistake once and did have problems, but I know others have used it with no issues.

I think that mostly depends on the bike. I think bikes with slipper clutches can use the energy conserving oils, but most can't. Check the owners manual.

[milesmiles]

no slipper for me

[Firewa11]

Here's a good article on using Mobil 1 for motorcycles:

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wis ... cycle.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I thought about switching myself, the real catch here is to only use 15w-50, and to change every 1500 - 2000 miles. I think I'll go this route next time around myself. Now if I could only get K&N oil filters at Wal-Mart...

As far as the energy conserving issue, consult your owner's manual. It'll actually tell you do not use any oil that is listed as energy conserving. This is due to friction modifiers that can make your clutch not have enough friction to engage properly, and can also cause missed gears / rough shifts. Since our transmissions, clutches, and engines all share the same oil, you have to make sure the oil is designed for all parts, not just the engine like oil for cars is done with.

[Striple]

Here's a good article on using Mobil 1 for motorcycles:

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wis ... cycle.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I thought about switching myself, the real catch here is to only use 15w-50, and to change every 1500 - 2000 miles. I think I'll go this route next time around myself. Now if I could only get K&N oil filters at Wal-Mart...

I've used the 15W-50 of Mobil 1 before, but now use only the weight specified by the manufacturers (10W-30 and 10W-40; always with the non-energy-conserving designation in the API label). This has worked perfectly well, and I've had zero issues. I've also used some of the "premium brands" before, but was never able to determine a significant difference. I've been doing the oil changes in 3,000 mile intervals.

I order the appropriate K&N filters at the local auto parts store. They can usually get them in on the same day.

[DarcShadow]

On the oil filters check the oil filter thread, most bikes can run a car oil filter which is bigger, and usually cheaper. The Walmart brank Super Tech is actually one of the better filters on the market and half the price.

[Firewa11]

I personally prefer K&N, and don't mind paying $10-$15 for them. Whether they are "just as good" isn't the question. The fact I can get a socket wrench on the end of the filter to take on / off, is the question!

[dufremle]

I personally prefer K&N, and don't mind paying $10-$15 for them. Whether they are "just as good" isn't the question. The fact I can get a socket wrench on the end of the filter to take on / off, is the question!

If you need a wrench to put the filter on or take it off you are putting it on too tight.

[Firewa11]

No, I follow the instructions. I think 1 full turn after the gasket connects or something like that. RTFM.

I had an incident with an oil filter coming off my car once. I went to a shop, got an oil change. Got about 15 miles down the road, car started overheating. Pulled over, saw oil dripping under the car, looked back, and saw a line of oil leading about a mile down the road behind me... to the oil filter.

[Dragonfly]

No, I follow the instructions. I think 1 full turn after the gasket connects or something like that. RTFM.

I had an incident with an oil filter coming off my car once. I went to a shop, got an oil change. Got about 15 miles down the road, car started overheating. Pulled over, saw oil dripping under the car, looked back, and saw a line of oil leading about a mile down the road behind me... to the oil filter.

I think its only 1/4 turn after the gasket makes contact. Besides, its the crush washer on the drain plug that's most important.

I use Castrol Syntec synthetic blend oil, and Fram tough guard oil filters (same one that fits the Ford F-150 and has the rubberized coating so you can put it on or take it of by hand).

[Firewa11]

I just put a FRAM on Steph's car this weekend, instructions for it were 3/4 - 1 full turn after gasket contact. I'm pretty sure K&N say 1 full turn.

I might try the FRAM, not sure yet. I just remembered on the Ninja I can't get a socket in there because the headers are in the way. It's a PITA position. The Gixxer was waaaaay easier.