Polokid's ZZR

[Polokid69]

[WickerMan]

Probably containers from one of the dollar stores, or all joking aside, sandwich bags for the smaller stuff, you can write on either with a permanent marker so you know what's what.

Exactly, sandwich bags and a sharpie. I used that system when I swapped my 240SX to turbo, no left over hardware.

[stoney812]

Polo, is that your new motor?

[stoney812]

I'm curious now to tear it down to see what failed. It sounds like you snapped a connecting rod, but why? I've always been drawn to mechanical failure. Like a demented gearhead CSI.

Based on how the bike started smoking from the exhaust slightly as he passed us doing at least a buck and a quarter and then just progressively got worse over the next couple of seconds, i'm guessing it started with a valve hitting the piston head and broke off into the cylinder. Once that cylinder tried to compress again with a valve in it, it probably broke the piston rod off where it connects to the piston head, but stayed attached to the crank shaft. That broken piston rod looks like it fell forward and caught on the front of the engine casing and pushed it through.

I'd suggest checking the valves on the new engine before putting it in the bike to make life alot easier, and potentially keep this from happening again.

[stoney812]

What is best for separating parts?

I've got a friend that is a mechanic at Boardwalk Ferrari and he uses muffin pans to separate and organize parts. Granted, he catches hell from all the other mechanics for his ghetto "parts trays", but they get the job done.

[JTChiTown]

I'm curious now to tear it down to see what failed. It sounds like you snapped a connecting rod, but why? I've always been drawn to mechanical failure. Like a demented gearhead CSI.

Based on how the bike started smoking from the exhaust slightly as he passed us doing at least a buck and a quarter and then just progressively got worse over the next couple of seconds, i'm guessing it started with a valve hitting the piston head and broke off into the cylinder. Once that cylinder tried to compress again with a valve in it, it probably broke the piston rod off where it connects to the piston head, but stayed attached to the crank shaft. That broken piston rod looks like it fell forward and caught on the front of the engine casing and pushed it through.

I'd suggest checking the valves on the new engine before putting it in the bike to make life alot easier, and potentially keep this from happening again.

Well that explains it. A kawasaki trying to do more than a buck 20.....

Yeah, dropping a valve was my first thought as well, and is the most likely scenario. But there's only one way to find out! Let's crack it open!

And Polo, you can't post pics like that without an explanation....

[Polokid69]

Polo, is that your new motor?

Its one im going to look at this weekend, also 2007 ZZR600

[LonestarCBR]

What is best for separating parts?

I've got a friend that is a mechanic at Boardwalk Ferrari and he uses muffin pans to separate and organize parts. Granted, he catches hell from all the other mechanics for his ghetto "parts trays", but they get the job done.

If you're working on a Ferrari you need something fancier than sandwich bags, whereas for a Kawasaki sandwich bags are akin to Louie Vuitton.

[WickerMan]

Sure, sross69@hotmail.com for Paypal

You might link your PayPal account to your GoFundMe.

[Polokid69]

Can you even do that?

[stoney812]

Polo, is that your new motor?

Its one im going to look at this weekend, also 2007 ZZR600

Oh.. You found that on Ebay, huh? That's the one that they said wouldn't shift into second, right? You might end up having to crack open the gearbox if that's the case though.

I also found this.

It's a bit more expensive, but it's got free shipping, and it's only in Tyler, TX. Considering shipping seems to be around $150-200 for bike motors, you might be able to get them to drop the price if you go and pick it up yourself.

[Polokid69]

A friend also told me by buying directly it saves them from PayPal and eBay charges

[Polokid69]

Removed tank and airbox, here is the rear part of the engine below the tank

[Polokid69]

Those two holes in the middle of the pic are from the explosion. Notice the long narrow one , maybe from a rod?

[Dragonfly]

Surprised Benny hasn't weighed in on this as he used to have one like this

I never had any issues with my ZZR. I put 59k miles on it. It was still running strong when I sold it.

But i will say ALL Kawis have weak valve train components. Weak in the sense that their service interval is shorter than most other makes. Valve checks should be done about every 10 to 12k miles.

If you can find them replace the OEMs with a set of titanium valves. While your at it replace the valve springs as well, maybe the pistons & connecting rods. Carrillo comes to mind, but they're not cheap. That will help you go about 24 to 30k between valve checks. That's whats in the ZX6RR along with some strategic milling and polishing.

[Polokid69]

Surprised Benny hasn't weighed in on this as he used to have one like this

I never had any issues with my ZZR. I put 59k miles on it. It was still running strong when I sold it.

But i will say ALL Kawis have weak valve train components. Weak in the sense that their service interval is shorter than most other makes. Valve checks should be done about every 10 to 12k miles.

If you can find them replace the OEMs with a set of titanium valves. While your at it replace the valve springs as well, maybe the pistons & connecting rods. Carrillo comes to mind, but they're not cheap. That will help you go about 24 to 30k between valve checks. That's whats in the ZX6RR along with some strategic milling and polishing.

Good to know, thanks

[Stardog]

Like they said, bag and tag all of the hardware and add numbers to the bags. 1 through however many you use. I recommend going on ebay through a legit recycler for your motor and get the lowest mile motor that you can afford. Generaly the price of a 15k mile motor is not but a little bit cheaper than a 5k mile motor.

[Stardog]

Polo, is that your new motor?

Its one im going to look at this weekend, also 2007 ZZR600

http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-KAWASAKI-NIN ... df&vxp=mtr

Hell no, he says that it won't shift right. Don't install scrap metal for a motor! Wait until you have cash for a good low mile high quality motor or you WILL be kicking yourself.

2007 Ninja ZX6R motor with stator and starter. Compression was 180-185 on all cylinders but it came out of a running wrecked bike and I got it to shift only in 1st and neutral. I did not do any more to it so no clue why it won't shift into 2nd gear. This motor is Sold As IS not knowing what's wrong with the gear box. Please review all pictures and ask questions. Happy Bidding!

[Pooty]

Dang good advice right there

[DemonDuck]

Well that explains it. A kawasaki trying to do more than a buck 20.....
...

I had a Kawasaki over 180 and it had almost 60k miles on it at the time. Just saying.

[fixxervi6]

Well that explains it. A kawasaki trying to do more than a buck 20.....
...

I had a Kawasaki over 180 and it had almost 60k miles on it at the time. Just saying.

Some hold up and some don't, every make has their demons.

Can't tell you how many kawi's I saw come into Scotts with dropped valves and destroyed motors - it was common place. There is also why a reason Scott doesn't do many ZX14 builds. I've heard Dave try to talk people out of it too just do to the kawi track record they saw at the shop.

Ape's appear to have random QA issues.

Honda's are probably the most solid, yet dated of the machines, similar to suzuki, solid machine just dated.

Triumph tend to have electrical problems, and we've all seen them just fall apart

Pick your poison, none of them are as reliable as a passenger car.

[Polokid69]

Looked at engine but decided against buying it. Another guy came after me and bought the engine and another guy on eBay also offered to buy it also so he had lack of takers. Time to save up

[Polokid69]

finally got the carbs off about to be in no mans land .Most of this I have never ever done. Found a shop manual online that tells me what to remove in what order to remove engine. Going to be at a point soon where I will need some of yalls expertise and hands on.

[milesmiles]

Make sure you label EVERYTHING. Since it might be awhile before you get a motor it's very very easy to forget which bolt goes where even if they are the same diameter it might be a different length.

You can also mark bolts where they go by different finger nail polish colors.

[fixxervi6]

I would recycle the aluminum parts that are trash - little bit of $$ recovered that way.