Track Bike - input is welcome.

[LonestarCBR]

Definitely interested in something as track ready as possible. If you know of a good buy, let me know.

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[milesmiles]

It might be a good idea to narrow it down just a bit by finding the class of bike you want to run. I personally like this sv, but there is also a 750 listed that i like as well...i just don't want a 750 for the track currently, you may though. It would be a good idea with any bike that has aftermarket suspension to contact them & see what weight they have it set up for. You don't want to buy the bike & then find out you need to spend a bit more to take advantage of the aftermarket goodies

http://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/4873417320.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[LonestarCBR]

It might be a good idea to narrow it down just a bit by finding the class of bike you want to run. I personally like this sv, but there is also a 750 listed that i like as well...i just don't want a 750 for the track currently, you may though. It would be a good idea with any bike that has aftermarket suspension to contact them & see what weight they have it set up for. You don't want to buy the bike & then find out you need to spend a bit more to take advantage of the aftermarket goodies

http://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/4873417320.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yes, I like this one too...it's one of the newest SV track bikes I've seen advertised in the past 1.5 years I've been watching. Yes, I know it's a long list, just a lot of different options. I know the SV will be the most highly recommended, and this is a good looking choice.

[DemonDuck]

Best thing about that choice is that its more than I want to spend so you should get it. LOL

[LonestarCBR]

I hear you.

[JTChiTown]

I'd kick the liter class bikes (929, 954) and any street bike with high mileage. I'd also kick the Aprilia. It will break down at some point, and i doubt you'd have much luck finding spares for rarer model bikes at a track day.

When I look at big purchases like this, I always pay attention to the item condition, as well as the condition of the stuff in the background. A worn out, zip tied and duct taped together sv650 sitting in a messy garage with 3 other bikes is a pretty good sign it wasn't the most loved and cared for object. I know it's not always a guarantee that you will have issues, but I've used that stick to measure for everything I've owned that way, and it's been true to cause so far.

Hopefully if everything goes to plan for my move, I'll be doing the same exercise this time next year. I already know I'll be looking at sv650, gsxr 600, and daytona 675. I like the 750, but I just don't think the extra cc's will be beneficial.

[DemonDuck]

Let me know which one you plan on getting so I dont go after the same one. I plan on making a purchase in the next couple weeks.

[fixxervi6]

If it were me I wouldn't run anything above 750cc's and I wouldn't get an aprilia, most likely will not hold up to constant beating like a jap bike, harder to work on with less parts - you want something easy to work on with lots of cheap parts, and GSXR's are all over the place.

[Striple]

There are a lot of angles that go into shopping for a track bike, but the short version is that it depends on what your goal is. If you just want to do a few track days a year and have a good time, then you should simply get the bike that you like best, based on whatever criteria you want to use. Any of the bikes you listed will be fun to ride on the track, and most of them have at least a decent record of reliability. If, on the other hand, your goal is to maximize your learning progress at the track, then you will have to be quite a bit more calculated about your choice. Basically, the smaller the bike, the more it is going to teach you. For that reason, 250s/300s are an ideal training bike for many people. They're cheap to purchase, cheap to run, and cheap to repair. They're also going to teach you a ton, since you cannot use the engine to compensate for whatever deficiencies your riding technique may have. However, 250s/300s may limit your ability to run in various track day classes a bit, since even most competitive racers will only run them in the intermediate level, where on-track rules may be more restrictive than you'd like (Ridesmart's L2 is a prime example). If we skip the 500s (which are actually becoming more popular again), then the next step up would be the SV650s/Ninja 650Rs. They're still considered lightweight bikes, even though they're actually about 15 pounds heavier than your average 600-cc supersport, while generating roughly 40 less hp and only marginally more torque at peak. In addition, the stock suspension of the 650-class is miserably inadequate, and may turn your track riding experience into a game of survival, rather than a productive learning process. All this means is that a 650 (much like any other potential track bike) must be set up properly to function accordingly. Like a 250/300, a 650 will not hide your technical deficiencies, but instead will showcase them for everyone to see. The chassis of the lightweight bikes is simply not good enough to hide a poor line or poor body position, and you just don't have the engine to make up for poor cornering technique. This is part of the reason why they make fantastic learner bikes: if you can learn to be fast on a lightweight, you can be fast on anything!

The 600-cc supersport class is probably the single most popular class at the track. They're common as dirt, so cheap parts are widely available and readily accessible, assuming that you're going with the conventional models. Whether you run an R6, ZX6R, CBR 600, GSX-R 600 or Daytona 675 (or even the Duc 848) makes little difference, and is mostly a matter of personal preference. Don't worry about which bike won the magazine shootouts that year--it means nothing unless you are competing against yourself on each of the five models! Find the one that fits you best ergonomically, and chances are that you are going to do best on that particular model versus the others, if you were to try them all. The Daytona is still a bit more expensive to run than her Japanese counterparts, but she has been abused on the race track for a number of years now, so the price gap between her and them is beginning to decrease. Any bikes in this class are powerful enough to be able to utilize the engine to overcome cornering issues at a track day, and the chassis are top notch, so that your progress may actually be stunted a bit. In addition, your cost of running these bikes is significantly more expensive than the lightweights, since the substantially greater amount of power translates into heavier wear, which is most obvious in tire wear. This also means that you must devote a significant portion of your focus toward power management, which will thus not be available to focus on proper cornering technique.

That pattern increases exponentially as you go further up the food chain. The heavyweights (750s & 1000s) produce more power, are more expensive to run, and require an even greater amount of focus devoted to power management. Heavyweights are generally the worst bikes to learn on, even if you are constantly passing everyone in the straights.

Once you've narrowed it down to a particular class or model, your search is going to become a lot easier. Basically, you want a bike with an aftermarket suspension, track fairings, aftermarket rear sets, and a steering damper. Most everything else is bonus: things like an exhaust, fuel management system, slipper clutch, 520 kit, multiple sprockets, etc. are all great goodies to have, but they are not critical to your progress at the track. The aftermarket suspension, however, is! Any aftermarket double- or triple clicker rear shock is fine, and you definitely want aftermarket fork internals as well. The stock suspension of nearly all bikes is shitty at best, and will keep you from gaining the confidence that is required to make solid progress. A stock suspension will make you feel like your bike is losing control and stability, even though you're not asking very much from it. Keep in mind that there is a 99% chance that you will have to get that new aftermarket suspension serviced and resprung for your weight. It is exceptionally rare to get lucky enough to purchase a bike that is both sprung for your weight and was recently serviced, so that the suspension will function the way it should. The approximate cost for that service is $300-500, depending on who does it and whether you or they are removing and installing the suspension on the bike.

As far as the listed bikes are concerned, I agree that the 2007 SV fits the bill best. Most of the listed bikes have a stock suspension, which means that it would take an additional $2-3.5k to get them where they would need to be. Yeah, that much. And yeah, that's nuts. And yeah, that's why you look for a bike with an aftermarket suspension. A few things to consider about that '07 SV that you may want to ask the seller if you decide to pursue that:

- When was the last time that motor was refreshed? If it was a winning race bike, then it was run HARD. Normal race bikes are rebuild every couple of years. If it wasn't, then you could be the one who is off in the grass with a smoking motor. That kind of engine service is also not cheap at all (think aftermarket suspension ballpark). The good news is that the engine is stock, which is much more durable than a built engine.
- When was the last time that the valve clearances were checked? This is an annual item for a track/race bike, and it would be good to know. He probably won't know, which means that it is one of the first items that you will need to take care of (tedious, but inexpensive to do yourself).
- What are the spring rates in the suspension? If he doesn't know, ask him what weight it was set for. Since this was Bobby Davis' old race bike, chances are that it is still sprung as it was for him. Bobby is about 6 ft, maybe 200 lbs, if I had to guess.
- What kind of internals are in the forks? The ad lists Racetech components, but are they cartridges or just aftermarket springs and emulator? There is a massive difference ($850+) between these two types, so you definitely want to find out what kind of internals they are.
- Are there spare sprockets and/or wheels that come with it? This is not a big deal, but it sure would be nice.

Just my $.02, which look more like $0.25 now that I'm scrolling through this.

[LonestarCBR]

One more thing...there is a good chance I'll be calling on one of you experts to go with me when it comes time to pull the trigger...I'm just sayin'.

If I make a bad purchase, I'll want somone to share the blame with me.

Seriously, some of you will much better know what to look for...what to avoid...because you're cool like that.

DD, I can probably get two bikes in my trailer...maybe we just have a track-bike buyers day.

Thomas, I've posted this before reading your reply...it probably tells me all I need to know.

[LonestarCBR]

Very nice Thomas, thanks. Talk about a good "blog", there is was, right there, in the flesh.

[DemonDuck]

I am even thinking of increasing my budget to be sure I don't have to spend 2 x as much in the end. Bah.

A track bike buying day sounds cool to me lol.

[fixxervi6]

LoneStar, what about your CBR?

[LonestarCBR]

I've thought about converting it...weight is my only real issue. It's got a nice linear power delivery, and for it's size handles well. I can still buy aftermarket exhaust, and so on, so it's doable. it's got 25,000 miles...a lot of 2-up, so it might need some suspension work, updated tires, and a diet. I'm thinking as it sits, it's about 560# or so. I still think she's pretty sexy however. And it's a really nice streetbike to this day.

1990 Honda CBR1000F.jpg (8.05 KiB) Viewed 2428 times

[milesmiles]

Dude, just for the time...get that thing some nice tires, refresh the suspension & track that sucker. For the simple reason that it would be some SWEET track day pictures on that. Then keep searching for a track bike, but wait for a super good deal.

[LonestarCBR]

Okay...there's one more reason...I don't want to hurt your feelings with something so antiquated.

Wait, never mind, you don't ride the track any more, my bad.

Seriously, I'll noodle on it some more. It's starting to sound like a lot of work to get it ready when I think about it.

[milesmiles]

The track comment cut me deep, everything else i laughed at. I'll be back on there soon.

[Striple]

Terry, stop giving him a hard time! At least he's got a nice couch to sit on and watch videos of the rest of us at the track...

[Striple]

Also, riding a 560-lbs behemoth at the track is a good time every now and again. Not sure that I would ever call that a practical track bike, since the skill set you develop will be mostly geared toward, well, behemoths.

[LonestarCBR]

Also, riding a 560-lbs behemoth at the track is a good time every now and again. Not sure that I would ever call that a practical track bike, since the skill set you develop will be mostly geared toward, well, behemoths.

So...what I hear you saying is that if I go with the old CBR, I can develop skills that allow me to then hustle a litercouch around the track like Miles, yes?

[Rhino]

I'll just jump in and agree, don't buy a liter bike.

I learned *way* more about cornering fast on my stock Versys with race tires than I did on my S3.

Nothing like a wobbly, floppy suspension and crap brakes to make you *very* sure about your corner entry speed and being smooth getting the bike leaned over.

One nice thing about buying a modern 600 is that it's already track-ready in terms of components. My ZX-6R was the best, the suspension was already correct for me and the brakes were top notch. I think if I were buying a track bike and not buying a supermoto, I'd go with a 600 that hasn't had any engine tuning done, then go with sticky ass tires. But then I'm not trying to be a racer, if I was I'd 100% go Thomas' route and learn on a SV.

[milesmiles]

I'm going to bring my couch to the track next time for people to rest & relax on, but not you, you can find another spot to rest.

[milesmiles]

FYI Lonestar, that SV650 that we both said we really liked is on the CMRA boards for $4000, i verified the phone numbers

[LonestarCBR]

I looked there, but it's been a while. It was just recently listed on CL. Hmmm...how low will he go?

[milesmiles]

Good question, you know he will take 4k, you also know he has had it for a long time. If it needs to be brought up of mention a friend told you about it on the cmra boards. That will let him know you saw it for 4k cutting his negotiating price range. I'd say he would probably take $3800, I'd hold out pretty hard if he sounds like he's set on 4k, but I'd also start at $3600. Then again I argue with rates like this every day so I always feel comfortable sticking it to them good. Also, do you think the bike is worth that? Don't do this on the phone, do it in person.