Suzuki Cold Start problem

[milesmiles]

I don't know about the gsxr, but Will hooked up a program that turned off the butterfly valve to my bike. Might be something to look into. Might cost you the same amount, but then you have the program. Also look up how to adjust the valve on the internet. If it's like the triumph it's not a big issue to do yourself

[Rhino]

Miles, not much is like the Triumph. They're kind of special in that all you need is the right cable and you can screw with all your electronics with your own computer. Most ECUs aren't like that.

Fixxer--if it's a $150 job to pull them, that means they're doing it in like 2 hours of work. Probably something you can do yourself.

[fixxervi6]

Miles, not much is like the Triumph. They're kind of special in that all you need is the right cable and you can screw with all your electronics with your own computer. Most ECUs aren't like that.

Fixxer--if it's a $150 job to pull them, that means they're doing it in like 2 hours of work. Probably something you can do yourself.

Yea I've seen some video's, gotta pull the airbox to extract the cable etc.

Something tells me that if the butterfly valve is sticking and I'm giving it gas to keep it running till it comes up to temp, thats a BAD thing for the engine.

The best fix is pricey, full taylor made kit

[WillK675]

Start hitting the GSXR forums, and I'm sure you'll find plenty of information on either disabling the exup or removing it.

[fixxervi6]

Actually, now that I remember correctly you have to mess with some minor electircal as well or the FI light will come on.

Damn shame that the taylor made costs $1,200, rediculous.

[WillK675]

I think Firewa11 may have had to deal with that on the former race bike. I think he had to jumper a couple of wires or something.

[DarcShadow]

So what's the actual problem then, the buttefly valve not opening?

[fixxervi6]

So what's the actual problem then, the buttefly valve not opening?

Since the fix is to remove it, I would assume the problem is its sticking closed.

[Firewa11]

Yeah, my problem was the servo used nylon teeth, which broke a few off, so the servo wasn't able to pull the valve where it needed to be... you could hear it clicking in the tail. So I yanked out the servo... and disconnected the cables to the valve. The valve has springs to keep it open, so without the cables it'll be wide open. And then I to cut a wire and tape off each end to keep the FI light from coming on. You can then pull off the servo completely (or leave it, your choice).

You can find some guides out there with pictures. The wire you cut is in the bundle that goes into the ECU, so it's not too hard to get to, just make double sure you get the right wire, as there are lot of them. I found a guide that not only included the color, but also the exact pin location going into the connector.

[fixxervi6]

Well its in the shop, they said they fixed that butterfly valve in the 09's, that the previous ones that had the servo in the tail section where notorious for valve problems, and that if I cut it, it could reduce low end torque which is the purpose of the valve to increase back pressure at lower RPM.

They reset the computer because the code was showing idle rpm too low due to throttle body's being out of sync, they checked the throttle bodies and they were well within tollerance, and of course the bike is idling perfectly because its warm.

They said if a reset doesn't fix it they'll probably need to call suzuki, I've left the bike with them so that they can reproduce the "cold start".

Since I'm getting the FI light when it does it now, figure I better get them to check it over before something gets fried/broken/serious.

[DemonDuck]

Hey buddy .... dont pay them crap for it. I can help you take them out. They are quick and easy.

[fixxervi6]

Hey buddy .... dont pay them crap for it. I can help you take them out. They are quick and easy.

Don't think its the butterfly valve, bike is throwing mixture/idle problem codes with FI light. Doesn't do it all the time which is the bitch.

It just recently started with the FI error so that got me worried.

Shoulda bought a honda

[DemonDuck]

ZX14 calling ya man.

[fixxervi6]

ZX14 calling ya man.

nah, like my gixxer better for the majority of the riding I do, two different machines completely, I want both!

GSXR-750 track
ZX-14 with hard luggage - trips, time travel etc
Dual purpose (maybe DRZ)
Two stroke dirt

Then my garage would be complete

[DemonDuck]

ROFL I understand.

[Dragonfly]

Its still under warranty isn't it?

[fixxervi6]

Its still under warranty isn't it?

11 days out, funny how that works isn't it?

[Firewa11]

Doh!

[Blizzard_1708]

let me know if removing the butterfly worked for you. I already had it replaced once under warranty.

[Valentina]

Scrap it and buy a Honda.

I haven't heard of that issue before. Call CycleWerkz and see if they have a way to fix it.

Sorry for disappointing u...i have a Honda CBR600RR -LOVE IT- and i ran into the same problem.
It was sitting on a stand out in the cold weather and I wanted to start up...i could not. all my friends told me it is a battery problem, but i have a brand new battery from March...
so it is the cold, but anyway im not riding anymore it is already minus here, so will start up next year...hopefully...

[fixxervi6]

Well dealer sent me home with no charge, the only old codes in the system were throttle body out of sync codes but when they checked them, they were well within tollerance.

I left the bike there so they could try cold starting it the next day, and as predicted, the bike started like a top and all parameters were well within limit, quite well actually for 21,000 miles with nothing but oil change air filter plugs maintainance by yours truely.

They reset the computer and said there is nothing wrong with it, keep an eye on it if it does it again we'll get suzuki involved. They assured me that it wasn't the butterfly valve and that removing it would be a bad idea as it will remove some bottom end torque and that they fixed that problem with the K9's, only the 7' and 8's were super notorious about the valve problem.

I'm 99% sure it has something to do with the electronics and I'm 100% certain the problem started after they replaced some electronics under recall.

So far I've yet to find anyone online that has come forward with the problem that is running aftermarket goodies, so that sounds like it might be a good fix to me.

[fixxervi6]

Well, its not the butterfly valve, because I don't have one anymore.

Gonna take it back down to cyclewerkz and see if they can figure it out since the dealer can't

[fixxervi6]

Been keeping up with other folks that also have the issue, some have spent thousands trying to fix the issue, so far there is no 100% solid "this is it!" fix. I've also been informed that there are 2011's popping up with this issue now.

One thing I've been doing is starting my bike on my tender, when I do that, no issues. Its been in the 30's every morning and the bike has started fine.

That could mean I'm onto something, or it could mean I've just been getting lucky and the problem is just waiting for the right moment to piss me off.

I have an idea, its a long shot, but its an idea.

I had a car, that ate batteries, funny thing is when a battery started going bad the electronics in the car would go funky. At first I just thought I had electrical issues because the car started and ran fine, until one day the car wouldn't start. Replaced the battery, every issue went away, as time went on, the radio would act up, and the cycle would repeat, new battery, all problems gone. I'm guessing the electronics were sensitive enough that a battery wtih some age on it was not giving good clean power enough to piss stuff off.

My problem, and many other peoples problems started after the rectifier recall, as a matter of fact mine started that same week.

And what does the rectifier do? converts the AC to DC for power for the bike, charging etc. Maybe suzuki's electronics are sensitive to power thats not so clean, and the new rectifiers suck, combine that with an aged battery and the electronics freak out.

1. most peoples problems started after the rectifier recall (rectifier is electrical juice shit as stated above)
2. most peopels started after the 1 year mark, older batteries, not fresh
3. problem happens when its cold, cold batteries don't work as well as warm ones
4. my problem appears to be non existant when I start on the tender

The next time it acts up I'm going to throw a volt meter on there and see what kind of power its throwing out, but so far the issue is gone. This is important because its been so bad that the cool down period between when I arrive at work and leave was enough to bring forward the issue, I've actually road less becuase its such a pain in the ass to get the bike started, it happens that frequently. But all this week, super cold ass temps, not a single hicup while on the tender.

Some people have spent thousands trying to fix this issue, and the bitch of it is, they won't know if it actually worked for a long time.

If I can't find a fix for this soon, or if I have to spend a ton of money to fix it, this will be the last suzuki under this roof. It was doing it so bad and so frequently that I threw the bike on the stands and said screw that piece of shit.

Knock on wood tho, it may be something as simple as needing a new battery, if it is then I'll love my baby again, if not, I'll trade the piece of shit in on a honda on a hot day and just eat the loses.

[fixxervi6]

Scrap it and buy a Honda.

I haven't heard of that issue before. Call CycleWerkz and see if they have a way to fix it.

Sorry for disappointing u...i have a Honda CBR600RR -LOVE IT- and i ran into the same problem.
It was sitting on a stand out in the cold weather and I wanted to start up...i could not. all my friends told me it is a battery problem, but i have a brand new battery from March...
so it is the cold, but anyway im not riding anymore it is already minus here, so will start up next year...hopefully...

Not quite the same, this is like the bike will only fire on 3 cylinders, you smell gas and it won't idle, gotta hold the throttle open till it warms up, then, turn the bike off and back on and its fine, usually have to blip the throttle a few times. After a while I figured it had to be a coil until I did some research, I guess it still could be but that hasn't fixed other peoples problem.

[NickS]

Sounds like the fuel pump is doing something (pumping fuel, one assumes) each time he fires the starter. Maybe it's flooding? Once started, it sound's just like a cold bike with not enough choke. Almost seems like a glitch in the fuel mapping/ECU, I assume temperature is measured and accounts for some aspect of the Fuel/Air mix. Since this seems to happen both stock and with third party fuel mapping (right?)....could a bad temperature sensor be a possibility? Or have I had too much scotch and not enough learning?