new brakes
- shilka99
- Honorary Club Member
- Posts: 1769
- Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 11:19 am
- Riding Style: Track Instructor
- Achievement count: 42
- Location: Irving
new brakes
I noticed some vibration at the lever when we were at Cresson so I ordered these last week:
They arrived faster than i thought possible and bolted on easy.
New - Old.
Heres hoping they hold up well at TWS this weekend.
I havent had the same luck with these:
Does anyone happen to know a machine shop that can make custom cast iron rotors in class 40 ductile?
They arrived faster than i thought possible and bolted on easy.
New - Old.
Heres hoping they hold up well at TWS this weekend.
I havent had the same luck with these:
Does anyone happen to know a machine shop that can make custom cast iron rotors in class 40 ductile?
Shaun in McKinney
RGV250|520SX/SMR|RSV4 Factory
RGV250|520SX/SMR|RSV4 Factory
- WillK675
- Posts: 8511
- Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 2:08 pm
- Riding Style: Intermediate Track Rider
- Achievement count: 35
- Location: Fort Worth
Re: new brakes
Nice. I don't think you'll have any problems with those overheating.
-Will
'07 Daytona 675
'09 Versys 650
'14 CB500
'20 MB200
When it comes to addiction Motorcycles are worse than crack.
"Brake fade is God's way of telling you to quit squeezing the coward lever and carry more corner speed, you pussy." - Rhino
'07 Daytona 675
'09 Versys 650
'14 CB500
'20 MB200
When it comes to addiction Motorcycles are worse than crack.
"Brake fade is God's way of telling you to quit squeezing the coward lever and carry more corner speed, you pussy." - Rhino
Re: new brakes
Plus they are pretty!
"Life may begin at 30, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."
- fireblade
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 11:19 am
- Achievement count: 46
- Location: North Fort Worth
Re: new brakes
make sure you run in the new break rotors before getting on the track. Nothing like getting new rotors that are supposed to be better and hitting the breaks and the dont stop very well.
Random stuff I say:
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
- Rhino
- Posts: 7793
- Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:30 am
- Riding Style: Intermediate Track Rider
- Achievement count: 35
- Location: Edge of Arlington
Re: new brakes
Are those even street legal? They look like assault weapons.
- El Diabro
- Posts: 2783
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:44 pm
- Riding Style: Intermediate Track Rider
- Achievement count: 18
- Location: Fort Worth side of White Settlement
Re: new brakes
nice brakes
Who all seen the Leprechaun say YEAH!!!!
'06 Busa *aka The Big Girl*
'05 GSXR 750 *aka Baby Gixxer*
'06 Busa *aka The Big Girl*
'05 GSXR 750 *aka Baby Gixxer*
- shilka99
- Honorary Club Member
- Posts: 1769
- Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 11:19 am
- Riding Style: Track Instructor
- Achievement count: 42
- Location: Irving
Re: new brakes
Good point. I dont want to do a Kegan at TWS... do I Kegan?fireblade wrote:make sure you run in the new break rotors before getting on the track. Nothing like getting new rotors that are supposed to be better and hitting the breaks and the dont stop very well.
The major lesson I learned with new brakes when I was racing is that you always bed in new pads with old discs, and new discs with old pads.
I'm teaching Level 1 again this weekend so that wont be too taxing on new brakes. I could do an entire round robin without using them at all.
Shaun in McKinney
RGV250|520SX/SMR|RSV4 Factory
RGV250|520SX/SMR|RSV4 Factory
Re: new brakes
They are good looking, if such a thing can be said of brakes. Curious about the merits of the old pad/new disk, new pad/old disc axiom. I'm guessing it's to avoid the two new, smooth surfaces from glazing or somesuch.
In my one and only track day so far (read: slow, newb), I felt that the laps where I did not touch the brakes at all were my smoothest and possibly less slow. Doing some reading on the topic, it seems I am not alone. Curious on thoughts.
In my one and only track day so far (read: slow, newb), I felt that the laps where I did not touch the brakes at all were my smoothest and possibly less slow. Doing some reading on the topic, it seems I am not alone. Curious on thoughts.
'08 Kawasaki Concours 14
'10 Kawasaki Z1000
'10 Kawasaki Z1000
- dufremle
- Club Staff/Treasurer
- Posts: 12567
- Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2006 7:57 am
- Riding Style: Novice Track Rider
- Achievement count: 0
- Location: NW Fort Worth
- Contact:
Re: new brakes
You should start a new thread for that.NickS wrote:In my one and only track day so far (read: slow, newb), I felt that the laps where I did not touch the brakes at all were my smoothest and possibly less slow. Doing some reading on the topic, it seems I am not alone. Curious on thoughts.
Jim
2024 Subaru Crosstrek
2017 Toyota 4Runner
2024 Subaru Crosstrek
2017 Toyota 4Runner
- DarcShadow
- Club Staff/Web Master
- Posts: 15130
- Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:20 pm
- Riding Style: Advanced Track Rider
- Achievement count: 45
- Location: Azle, TX
- Contact:
Re: new brakes
Those brakes are sweet! Even if they are crap, the still look damn good. ha!
I Refuse to Tiptoe Through Life...Only to Arrive Safely at Death.
Attack Life! It's gonna kill you anyway.
http://www.facebook.com/DSDecals
Attack Life! It's gonna kill you anyway.
http://www.facebook.com/DSDecals
- DarcShadow
- Club Staff/Web Master
- Posts: 15130
- Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:20 pm
- Riding Style: Advanced Track Rider
- Achievement count: 45
- Location: Azle, TX
- Contact:
Re: new brakes
The Keith Code school I did back in '01 did 2 full session where they wanted you to not touch the brakes, I think one of the sessions they wanted you to not use the brakes and run in 3rd the entire time. It's a way of learning the track and the turns. If you don't have to worry about shifting, and are not haulling ass down the straights it gives you less things to think about and more time to focus on riding smoothing, finding the lines, and reading the turns.NickS wrote:They are good looking, if such a thing can be said of brakes. Curious about the merits of the old pad/new disk, new pad/old disc axiom. I'm guessing it's to avoid the two new, smooth surfaces from glazing or somesuch.
In my one and only track day so far (read: slow, newb), I felt that the laps where I did not touch the brakes at all were my smoothest and possibly less slow. Doing some reading on the topic, it seems I am not alone. Curious on thoughts.
I Refuse to Tiptoe Through Life...Only to Arrive Safely at Death.
Attack Life! It's gonna kill you anyway.
http://www.facebook.com/DSDecals
Attack Life! It's gonna kill you anyway.
http://www.facebook.com/DSDecals
Re: new brakes
Yeah, might be something good to think about for Ridesmart... as the day progresses in L1 give that a shot. As far as mating new brake pads and/or rotors, I haven't heard that before. Usually when you get car brakes done, you put new pads on, and you turn the rotors, which is basically give you a like-new polished surface to mate the pads on.
Only thing I could think of is the break-in time might be longer by doing it this way, which for a bike, especially one that's getting right out on the track, could cause the brakes to be mushy for the first few laps... leading you to grab and them not be there.
Don't think the glazing is necessarily a result of new on new, but could be. I glazed a set of pads at ECR against a used rotor, so not sure about that.
Only thing I could think of is the break-in time might be longer by doing it this way, which for a bike, especially one that's getting right out on the track, could cause the brakes to be mushy for the first few laps... leading you to grab and them not be there.
Don't think the glazing is necessarily a result of new on new, but could be. I glazed a set of pads at ECR against a used rotor, so not sure about that.
"Life may begin at 30, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."
- fireblade
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 11:19 am
- Achievement count: 46
- Location: North Fort Worth
Re: new brakes
Immediately after installing new pads, rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brakes will result in very little braking power. Gently use the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.
If you have just installed rotors with zinc or cadmium plating, or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone the bedding process until normal driving has allowed your brake pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating. If your new brake rotors have an oily anti-corrosion coating, you should clean this off thoroughly with brake cleaning spray and/or hot soapy water.
When following these instructions, avoid other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and may respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. A police officer will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Use common sense!
From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
If you have just installed rotors with zinc or cadmium plating, or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone the bedding process until normal driving has allowed your brake pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating. If your new brake rotors have an oily anti-corrosion coating, you should clean this off thoroughly with brake cleaning spray and/or hot soapy water.
When following these instructions, avoid other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and may respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. A police officer will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Use common sense!
From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
Random stuff I say:
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
- DarcShadow
- Club Staff/Web Master
- Posts: 15130
- Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:20 pm
- Riding Style: Advanced Track Rider
- Achievement count: 45
- Location: Azle, TX
- Contact:
Re: new brakes
Old and new are just to save money. If you have plenty of meat left on the pads there's no need toss them just cause you have new rotors, or vise versa. In both new/old and new/new you have to get the two seated. The pads just need to wear to match the micro groves in the surface of the rotors.
Interesting side note, in the UK, they don't turn rotors.
Interesting side note, in the UK, they don't turn rotors.
I Refuse to Tiptoe Through Life...Only to Arrive Safely at Death.
Attack Life! It's gonna kill you anyway.
http://www.facebook.com/DSDecals
Attack Life! It's gonna kill you anyway.
http://www.facebook.com/DSDecals
- fireblade
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 11:19 am
- Achievement count: 46
- Location: North Fort Worth
Re: new brakes
In order for any brake system to work optimally, the rotors and pads must be properly bedded-in, period. This process can also be called break-in, conditioning, or burnishing, but whatever terminology you choose, getting the brakes properly bedded-in and keeping them that way is critical to the peak performance of the entire brake system.
However, understanding why the rotors and pads need to be bedded-in is just as important as the actual process. If one understands what is happening during the bed-in process, they can tailor the process to specific pads, rotors, and/or driving conditions. For this reason, we present this generic bed-in overview pertaining to all brake systems, but follow with links to application-specific bed-in procedures to fit most every set of circumstances.
What is brake pad “bed-in” anyway?
Simply stated, bed-in is the process of depositing an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. That's it. End of discussion. Ok, not really, but although bed-in is quite basic in definition, achieving this condition in practice can be quite a challenge, and the ramifications of improper or incomplete bed-in can be quite a-a-n-n-o-o-y-y-i-i-n-n-g-g.
Abrasive friction and adherent friction
There are two basic types of brake pad friction mechanisms: abrasive friction and adherent friction . In general, all pads display a bit of each, with abrasive mechanisms dominating the lower temperature ranges while adherent mechanisms come more into play as pad temperature increases. Both mechanisms allow for friction or the conversion of Kinetic energy to Thermal energy, which is the function of a brake system, by the breaking of molecular bonds in vastly different ways.
The abrasive mechanism generates friction or energy conversion by the mechanical rubbing of the brake pad material directly on the rotor disc. In a crystalline sense, the weaker of the bonds in the two different materials is broken. This obviously results in mechanical wear of both the pad and the rotor. Consequently, both pads and rotors are replaced when they are physically worn to their limit and are too thin to endure further service.
The adherent mechanism is altogether different. In an adherent system, a thin layer of brake pad material actually transfers and sticks (adheres) on to the rotor face. The layer of pad material, once evenly established on the rotor, is what actually rubs on the brake pad. The bonds that are broken, for the conversion of Kinetic to Thermal energy, are formed instantaneously before being broken again. It is this brake pad-on-transferred brake pad material interaction on a molecular level that yields the conversion process.
With the adherent mechanism there is much reduced rotor wear as compared to abrasive mechanism, but it's not a free lunch – pads now become the primary wear element in the braking system. And even though rotors are not mechanically worn down with adherent systems, they still will need to be replaced on a regular basis due to cracking reaching a point of failure if they are exposed to intense, repetitive thermal cycling. This is why race teams throw out rotors that are actually as thick or thicker than when they were brand new. It's due to the an adherent brake pad transfer layer!
The all-important transfer layer
As stated above, the objective of the bed-in process is to deposit an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer , on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. Note the emphasis on the word even, as uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
Let's say that again, just so there is no misunderstanding. Uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
It only takes a small amount of thickness variation, or TV, in the transfer layer (we're only talking a few ten thousandths of an inch here) to initiate brake vibration. While the impact of an uneven transfer layer is almost imperceptible at first, as the pad starts riding the high and low spots, more and more TV will be naturally generated until the vibration is much more evident. With prolonged exposure, the high spots can become hot spots and can actually change the metallurgy of the rotor in those areas, creating “hard” spots in the rotor face that are virtually impossible to remove.
Bedding fundamentals
In general, bed-in consists of heating a brake system to its adherent temperature to allow the formation of a transfer layer. The brake system is then allowed to cool without coming to rest, resulting in an even transfer layer deposition around the rotor circumference. This procedure is typically repeated two or three times in order to ensure that the entire rotor face is evenly covered with brake pad material. Sounds easy, right? Well, it can be if you have the proper information.
Because the adherent temperature range for brake pads varies widely (typically 100°F-600°F for street pads and 600°F-1400°F for race pads), each bed-in needs to be application-specific. One could try to generate a one-size-fits-all procedure, but too little heat during bed-in keeps the material from transferring to the rotor face while overheating the system can generate uneven pad deposits due to the material breaking down and splotching (that's a technical term) on to the rotor face.
In summary, the key to a successful bed-in is to bring the pads up to their adherent operating temperature in a controlled manner and keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to successfully accomplish the bed-in. The recommended procedures below should provide you with the information you need to select the bed-in procedure appropriate for your application.
However, understanding why the rotors and pads need to be bedded-in is just as important as the actual process. If one understands what is happening during the bed-in process, they can tailor the process to specific pads, rotors, and/or driving conditions. For this reason, we present this generic bed-in overview pertaining to all brake systems, but follow with links to application-specific bed-in procedures to fit most every set of circumstances.
What is brake pad “bed-in” anyway?
Simply stated, bed-in is the process of depositing an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. That's it. End of discussion. Ok, not really, but although bed-in is quite basic in definition, achieving this condition in practice can be quite a challenge, and the ramifications of improper or incomplete bed-in can be quite a-a-n-n-o-o-y-y-i-i-n-n-g-g.
Abrasive friction and adherent friction
There are two basic types of brake pad friction mechanisms: abrasive friction and adherent friction . In general, all pads display a bit of each, with abrasive mechanisms dominating the lower temperature ranges while adherent mechanisms come more into play as pad temperature increases. Both mechanisms allow for friction or the conversion of Kinetic energy to Thermal energy, which is the function of a brake system, by the breaking of molecular bonds in vastly different ways.
The abrasive mechanism generates friction or energy conversion by the mechanical rubbing of the brake pad material directly on the rotor disc. In a crystalline sense, the weaker of the bonds in the two different materials is broken. This obviously results in mechanical wear of both the pad and the rotor. Consequently, both pads and rotors are replaced when they are physically worn to their limit and are too thin to endure further service.
The adherent mechanism is altogether different. In an adherent system, a thin layer of brake pad material actually transfers and sticks (adheres) on to the rotor face. The layer of pad material, once evenly established on the rotor, is what actually rubs on the brake pad. The bonds that are broken, for the conversion of Kinetic to Thermal energy, are formed instantaneously before being broken again. It is this brake pad-on-transferred brake pad material interaction on a molecular level that yields the conversion process.
With the adherent mechanism there is much reduced rotor wear as compared to abrasive mechanism, but it's not a free lunch – pads now become the primary wear element in the braking system. And even though rotors are not mechanically worn down with adherent systems, they still will need to be replaced on a regular basis due to cracking reaching a point of failure if they are exposed to intense, repetitive thermal cycling. This is why race teams throw out rotors that are actually as thick or thicker than when they were brand new. It's due to the an adherent brake pad transfer layer!
The all-important transfer layer
As stated above, the objective of the bed-in process is to deposit an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer , on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. Note the emphasis on the word even, as uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
Let's say that again, just so there is no misunderstanding. Uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
It only takes a small amount of thickness variation, or TV, in the transfer layer (we're only talking a few ten thousandths of an inch here) to initiate brake vibration. While the impact of an uneven transfer layer is almost imperceptible at first, as the pad starts riding the high and low spots, more and more TV will be naturally generated until the vibration is much more evident. With prolonged exposure, the high spots can become hot spots and can actually change the metallurgy of the rotor in those areas, creating “hard” spots in the rotor face that are virtually impossible to remove.
Bedding fundamentals
In general, bed-in consists of heating a brake system to its adherent temperature to allow the formation of a transfer layer. The brake system is then allowed to cool without coming to rest, resulting in an even transfer layer deposition around the rotor circumference. This procedure is typically repeated two or three times in order to ensure that the entire rotor face is evenly covered with brake pad material. Sounds easy, right? Well, it can be if you have the proper information.
Because the adherent temperature range for brake pads varies widely (typically 100°F-600°F for street pads and 600°F-1400°F for race pads), each bed-in needs to be application-specific. One could try to generate a one-size-fits-all procedure, but too little heat during bed-in keeps the material from transferring to the rotor face while overheating the system can generate uneven pad deposits due to the material breaking down and splotching (that's a technical term) on to the rotor face.
In summary, the key to a successful bed-in is to bring the pads up to their adherent operating temperature in a controlled manner and keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to successfully accomplish the bed-in. The recommended procedures below should provide you with the information you need to select the bed-in procedure appropriate for your application.
Random stuff I say:
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
- DemonDuck
- Honorary Club Member
- Posts: 7623
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 6:21 am
- Riding Style: Intermediate Track Rider
- Achievement count: 40
- Location: Litchfield, Il
Re: new brakes
wow fireblade did you get hit with a smart bug?
~Jeremiah~ AKA DemonDuck
Live your life that the fear of death can never enter your heart.
2012 BMW S1000RR Red/White
2000 SV650 Track bike
2008 Kawasaki ZX-14 - Sold
1982 Honda CB750K - Sold
Live your life that the fear of death can never enter your heart.
2012 BMW S1000RR Red/White
2000 SV650 Track bike
2008 Kawasaki ZX-14 - Sold
1982 Honda CB750K - Sold
- fireblade
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 11:19 am
- Achievement count: 46
- Location: North Fort Worth
Re: new brakes
years of racing and being a gearhead. you can learn stuff if you pay attention.
Random stuff I say:
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
Re: new brakes
LOL, like how to google shit.
"Life may begin at 30, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."
- fireblade
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 11:19 am
- Achievement count: 46
- Location: North Fort Worth
Re: new brakes
I new all this stuff ass! but some else explains it better.
Random stuff I say:
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
Women are like square roots, if they're under 17 you just have to do them in your head.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an incline plane, wrapped helicly around an axis?
- milesmiles
- Ride Leader
- Posts: 13622
- Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2010 4:40 pm
- Riding Style: Advanced Track Rider
- Achievement count: 27
- Location: Denton
Re: new brakes
Firewa11 wrote:LOL, like how to google shit.
The world needs Miles
Sometimes you gotta draw the line, but that doesn't mean it can't be squiggly-miles
"it's not a stupid dirt bike, it's a supermoto!"-miles
Sometimes you gotta draw the line, but that doesn't mean it can't be squiggly-miles
"it's not a stupid dirt bike, it's a supermoto!"-miles
Re: new brakes
Hahaha, nothin but love bro!
"Life may begin at 30, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."
- Rhino
- Posts: 7793
- Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:30 am
- Riding Style: Intermediate Track Rider
- Achievement count: 35
- Location: Edge of Arlington
Re: new brakes
Wow, that explains so much about the crap braking on my C14. It had a vibration that just would not go away.
- U-Turn
- Posts: 3776
- Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2007 2:37 pm
- Achievement count: 31
- Location: Florida, sunning the days away.
- Contact:
Re: new brakes
Those rotors look like saw blades, if they were mounted the other way.
Still radical from the "standard" round rotor.
-
On a side note: I took the tre train into downtown today and waiting for the train to stop, looking at the wheels - those trains have disc brakes! Big ones too.
Still radical from the "standard" round rotor.
-
On a side note: I took the tre train into downtown today and waiting for the train to stop, looking at the wheels - those trains have disc brakes! Big ones too.
Sitting on the couch, watching TV, isn't living.
Triumph 955
txt 8..223.0762 to ride.
-
Triumph 955
txt 8..223.0762 to ride.
-
Re: new brakes
The C14 did have a round of bad rotors, I got mine replaced under warranty.
'08 Kawasaki Concours 14
'10 Kawasaki Z1000
'10 Kawasaki Z1000